A client wants better sound from a new TV, and the first question on the walkthrough is the same every time: one bar under the screen or a receiver with speakers around the room. The soundbar vs AV receiver decision sets the wiring you rough in, the space you need for equipment and how easily the system grows later. This guide compares the two, adds the passive soundbar option many people miss, and maps each one to the rooms where it fits.
Soundbar vs AV receiver: which should you install?
Install a soundbar where simplicity and a clean look matter most: one powered box under the TV, one HDMI cable, little wiring. Install an AV receiver with separate speakers where the client wants true surround, more power and room to upgrade. A passive soundbar driven by a receiver sits between the two.
Soundbar vs AV receiver at a glance
An active soundbar puts the amplifiers, processing and drivers in one cabinet. An AV receiver is the hub of a component system: it switches sources, decodes surround formats and powers each speaker over its own wire. A passive soundbar is simply three front speakers in one long cabinet, powered by a receiver.
| Factor | Active soundbar | Passive soundbar plus receiver | Receiver plus separate speakers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Amplification | Built into the bar | In the receiver | In the receiver or added amplifiers |
| Surround | Processed or virtual, optional wireless rears on some models | Real left, center and right, add rears and sub | Real discrete channels in every position |
| Connections | HDMI ARC or eARC, or optical, to the TV | Speaker wire to the bar, HDMI to the TV | Speaker wire to every speaker, HDMI for each source |
| Wiring work | Minimal | Moderate | Most |
| Upgrade path | Replace the whole bar | Swap the receiver, keep the bar | Replace any single piece |
How a soundbar system works
An active soundbar takes audio from the TV, usually over the TV’s HDMI ARC or eARC port, or from an optical output on older sets. The bar decodes the signal and drives its own small speakers. Many models pair with a wireless subwoofer, and some offer wireless rear speakers or upward-firing drivers for height effects.
Because every driver sits in one cabinet at the front of the room, a soundbar creates width and surround mostly through signal processing. That works well in small and medium rooms with walls close to the seats, and less well in large or open rooms. The appeal for the client is a clean install: one box, one remote, the TV in charge of sources.
For the installer, the main risks are HDMI handshake problems and lip sync, so specify a quality cable and keep the run sensible. Read our guide to HDMI cable length limits and long runs before routing the TV connection through a wall.
How an AV receiver system works
A receiver for home theater is a switcher, a surround decoder and a multichannel amplifier in one chassis. Sources such as a streaming box, disc player or game console connect to the receiver, which passes video to the TV and sends each audio channel to its own speaker. Most current models include a setup microphone that measures the room and sets speaker distances and levels.
Real speakers in real positions give the most convincing surround. The international reference layout in ITU-R Recommendation BS.775 places the front left and right speakers 30 degrees either side of center, with the two surround speakers anywhere between 100 and 120 degrees from straight ahead. The same document puts the low frequency effects channel at frequencies up to 120 Hz, which is the subwoofer’s job.
The trade-off is more boxes and more wire. A receiver needs ventilation, a home for the sources and a speaker run to every position. Browse the multichannel AV receivers in the Bursma line by channel count, from 5.2 up to 11.2.
Passive soundbars: the middle ground
A passive soundbar has no amplifier or inputs of its own. It holds the left, center and right speakers in one slim cabinet sized to the TV, and the receiver drives it over speaker wire, usually three pairs. The TV’s audio reaches the receiver through its HDMI ARC or eARC connection.
The result looks like a soundbar but behaves like a component front stage. The SONSB46L passive soundbar for 70 to 80 inch TVs is rated at 8 ohms nominal, 6 ohms minimum, with a power handling range of 50 to 150 watts. Its response runs from 90 Hz up, so pair it with a powered sub from the subwoofer category. The matching SONSB46M is sized for 50 to 65 inch screens.
Soundbar or surround sound system: matching the room
Room size, layout and the client’s tolerance for visible equipment decide most jobs. Use these as starting points:
- Bedrooms, kitchens and small living rooms: an active soundbar, with a wireless sub if bass matters.
- Main living rooms with a wall-mounted TV: a passive soundbar plus in-ceiling surrounds, with the receiver in a cabinet or closet.
- Dedicated theaters and media rooms: a receiver with separate speakers laid out to the reference angles, plus one or two subs.
- Conference rooms and waiting areas: a soundbar under the display covers speech clearly without a rack.
Ceiling speakers keep surrounds out of sight in finished rooms; our in-ceiling speaker placement guide covers spacing and angles, and the in-wall and in-ceiling speaker range has the hardware.
Wiring and prewire planning
The easiest upgrade is the one you roughed in. Even when the client chooses an active soundbar today, pulling speaker wire to the surround positions during construction keeps a receiver system open later. Use cable with the right jacket rating for in-wall runs; the CMR vs CMP cable guide explains the ratings.
- TV location: recessed power and an HDMI path behind the screen, matched to the TV wall mount type.
- Equipment location: a ventilated cabinet or a rack for a receiver; see how to choose an AV equipment rack.
- Control: plan IR or network control if the equipment will sit out of sight.
- Protection: surge protection or power conditioning for the receiver and TV, compared in power conditioner vs surge protector.
Where to buy soundbars and receivers
Both approaches are listed in the sound bars category and across the audio video division, alongside receivers, speakers, subwoofers, mounts and racks. For pricing and ordering, talk to your sales representative through the contact page.
If you install for a living, apply for a Bursma dealer account, or reach the Wyoming, MI branch or the Columbus, OH branch.
Frequently asked questions
Is an AV receiver better than a soundbar?
For true surround and flexibility, yes: discrete speakers in real positions and the option to upgrade one piece at a time. For a small room or a client who wants one box and no visible wiring, a soundbar is often the better fit.
Can you connect a soundbar to an AV receiver?
A passive soundbar is designed for it and connects to the receiver’s speaker outputs. An active soundbar is built to take audio from the TV, so pairing one with a receiver usually duplicates amplification and processing.
Does a soundbar need a subwoofer?
Not always, but slim cabinets cannot move much air at low frequencies. A sub adds the deep bass that film soundtracks carry, and it is close to essential with a passive bar whose response starts around 90 Hz.
Can I start with a soundbar and upgrade later?
Yes, if the room is prewired. Run speaker wire to the surround positions and an HDMI path to an equipment location now, and a receiver system can replace the bar without opening walls.